I've grown this cultivar since it was first released. I grow it for the colour as well as the size of the bloom. It is a very strong grower which requires little attention during the season and little or no tidying up at show time.

Propagation
I usually have around 50-60 cuttings rooted by Christmas. In the right compost and a cool temperature cuttings abound. I don't believe in the use of hormone rooting powder. My rooting medium is not sterilised and consists of 3 bushels of peat and 1 bushel of perlite. I also use a peat only medium on occasions.

Boxing up
After rooting the cuttings remain on the bench for a week to 10 days before moving on at 8 plants per polystyrene box. I use a variety of compost mixes at this stage: peat based for some cultivars, peat and sand for others, and peat, sand and loam for the rest. I like to withhold water for as long as possible.

Stopping
When stopping I like to take out a small tip, usually about 0.5" or to the nearest leaf joint. I have never used growth retardants, I can't see that it's necessary unless perhaps for some of the very tall intermediate cultivars. My theory is if you have a good tall , sturdy plant it' s just about certain to produce a good large bloom.

Ground preparation
I dig my plot between the middle and end of November and carry out my own soil tests. I've done this for years and wouldn't change now. Ph readings are also taken and dressing prior to planting is based on the outcome of the tests. I have never found it necessary to sterilise my plot.

Planting out
I begin planting around the 10th of May, I grow between 300 and 350 plants and spacing is 15" to 18" depending on the cultivar. I've even been down to 12" spacing and couldn't notice any difference. I plant in double rows.

Feeding
I like to get down to two laterals at the earliest possible time, although this particular cultivar is such a strong grower I'm sure it would be capable of producing three good and reasonable blooms.

I do carry out some feeding - three weeks after planting at 7 day intervals I feed with a high nitrogen formula and as the buds appear I change to a high potash formula. All feeding stops when the buds begin to show colour.

Spraying
Spraying is carried out at regular intervals using a variety of proprietary insecticides - Pirimor, Sybol, Abol X. I will alternate the spray every 7 days. When the blooms are developing I use a puffer pack and dust with Pirimor.

Securing buds and bloom protection
Side shoots are removed when about one inch long. I've discovered that if these are taken out before this then they have a tendency to re-appear. Leaving them to reach several inches in length I've no doubt builds up a better root system but deprives the plant of all that extra growth.

My protective cover is put in place about the first or second week in July. I don't bag any blooms as I like to watch them develop. I used to bag blooms in years gone by but I've foun d that bagging blooms gives no guarantee of getting them on the show bench. I believe I've had better blooms since I stopped bagging.

Preparing for shows
I grow 2 stems per plant and expect 2 bloom for show. When I start cutting I have good deep buckets of water handy and the cut stems are paced in these up the neck. Cutting time varies from between 24 to 36 hours before the show. I have never boiled the s tems. I do very little bloom dressing, nothing more than a general tidy up. When selecting blooms for a vase I look for uniformity in colour, size and stage of development.

End of the season
Stools are usually lifted around mid to end October, having been cut down to about 9" before lifting, I only tidy up at lifting time as I'm not a believer in letting them produce further shoots from the base as this only expends energy unnecessarily. I wa nt the best out of my stools in the form of next years cuttings. I have used hot water treatment in the past but not for the last two years. Stools are boxed up 8 per box in fresh compost. I have used several mixes for this - 7 peat, 3 sand, 2 loam or 8 peat and 4 loam, however I now use Chempak Potting base according to the manufacturer's instructions and find it is very good.

If you would like further information or wish to comment on this publication please send your e-mail to: paul.barlow@chrysanthemums.info

Last updated on 20 December, 2001