PENNINE ORIEL
I have grown the Oriels for many years. Pennine Oriel is the class act of the spray world, the lovely oyster cushion in perfect balance with the w hite petals. When grown well it will produce eight plus blooms per stem, with pedicels sufficiently long to be spaced out to form the perfect vase.

Stock selection
One of the most important points in growing all chrysanthemums is stool selection. Havin g selected the best I like to give them a cool rest period. I remove all green growth from the stool by snipping rather than breaking off. As I grow all my sprays in pots they are portable. All being well they will stay outside until the Lates have finish ed flowering, sitting pot thick but still looked after, not allowed to dry out or become over wet. They will be moved into the greenhouse at the end of November, sitting on the staging with the heating off and all windows open.

Propagation
Weather permi tting that's how they will stay until the end of the year when the house will be closed and the temperature raised. The Oriels throw a good number of cuttings, the ideal being about 2.5" long, in growth, with a medium leaf size. Cuttings are taken in Janu a ry, into a peat, sand, sterilised soil mix using 1.5" plug trays. Soil temperature is 65F in the propagator with air temperature of about 50F. In common with many other growers I am using electric lights above the propagation area to increase light intens ity and extend the daylength The cuttings are well watered in and never allowed to dry out, they are frequently sprayed overhead.

Rooting will take two weeks, when the trays will be moved from the hot bench to a cooler position, but still under lights over the propagator for a further 10 days. Sterilised soil is used at all stages. The mix for the first move is JI no 1, into 3" clay pots. Moved into 5" pots, still clays, with JI no 2, into the frame in March, and covered with thick felts ev ery night. Stopping takes place on 15th April and three breaks are allowed to grow on until the final potting, then down to two. Moving into final pots, 8" or 8.5" clays, is a third week in May job. The soil is prepared, JI no 3, and turned a few times b efore use. The pH for all mixes is around 6.8. As the local water is now just over 6.0, from the previous 7.2 I can start a little higher than I did in the past.

Plants are potted up reasonably firm with two and a half inches left for top dresses in Jul y/August. After potting they are stood 'pot thick' for about two weeks, frequent overhead sprays are given but the pots are not watered, this is to encourage the roots to move into the new soil. A cane will be inserted into the new soil, one for each brea k . Standing the plants out into the growing area needs careful planning as all plants perform best in full light. Canes require to be tied to a taut wire with room for the plants to develop fully. Feeding can start six weeks after final potting. I use Vita x 301 and 101 as the weather determines, 301 for sunshine and 101 for dull weather. Sprays perform best if grown softer with a bit more nitrogen than for other types. I spray with insecticide/fungicide mix every two weeks, covering the whole plant.

Spray development
When buds appear in July, I remove the break bud when it's large enough to handle. I will count down nine or ten breaks and remove all breaks below this. I like to house the plant soon after that to lengthen the pedicels. When possible t he buds are spaced to allow them to develop in a pleasing manner. I use drinking straws cut to various lengths for this job. Shading is erected when colour appears, plants are always well watered when making flowers and never allowed to dry out. I continu e to feed weak 301 right through flowering.

Exhibition
When cutting for a Friday staging I will water well on Wednesday, and cut on Thursday morning straight into deep water. Stems are boiled for 30 seconds in 4" water and then replaced back in deep col d water. The blooms are them kept in a cool place before taking them to the show. Oriel is a very dependable variety, shown with a full cushion, cut five stems to match with each other and they will form a lovely vase.

HONEY ENBEE WEDDING

I grow most of the Enbee family. They are the most successfully shown spray variety at this moment. Honey is different from the rest of the family, it does not show any pinking of it's petals. I grow the Enbees exactly as I do the Oriels until flowering time. Oriels being anemone centred do not make pollen so readily as the single flowering Enbees. Hover flies attracted by the strong smelling pollen arrive in large numbers to gorge themselves then deposit it on the petals making an unsightly mess. I intend to fit gauze-like material over the greenhouse windows this year in an attempt to control this problem - hopefully.

If you would like further information or wish to comment on this publication please send your e-mail to: paul.barlow@chrysanthemums.info

Last updated on 20 December, 2001