PRIMROSE CHESSINGTON

The cuttings are taken in late November and I believe in keeping at least a dozen stools of most varieties even though this variety is a good cutting thrower. This gives the option of a good choice of balanced cuttings when I need them. The rooting medium is equal parts sterilised loam, peat and very sharp grit with 2oz of super phosphate per bushel. No hormone rooting powder is used. My method for rooting is to take the usual type of leafy cutting which has been grown under lights. I use do uble fluorescent tubes to extend the daylight hours to 14 hours per day. Each tube is 80 watts which gives 160 watts over a propagating area of about 16sq feet, at 10 watts per square foot this gives a good, compact, leafy cutting.

Propagation
Once the seed tray is filled with cuttings, 24 per standard seed tray, the tray is soaked with cold water by standing the tray in water and then drenching with a watering can and left for 24 hours. The tray is then placed on the open bench for 7 days before being p laced on the heated propagator. This 7 day cold period gives the wound on the end of the cutting chance to heal and callus over before going on the heat. I find that the cuttings root strongly but at that time of year need a month to build a strong root s ystem. I just listen when growers root cuttings in 10 days in November. I usually root in batches at 7 day intervals.

The cuttings are treated with Alar 4 weeks after insertion and again 4 weeks later at the rate of one quarter teaspoon in 1 pint of water. After the cuttings are rooted they are potted into 3.5" pots in JI no1 compost, then moved on into 1.5 litre or 6.5" pots in JI no 1.5 compost. The plants are stopped by removing the small growing tip very cleanly on the second weekend in March. I have found the ash base method unsuitable for the current later flowering type of cultivars, although I have used it successfully with earlier flowering cultivars such as Bruera, Lona May, Grace Riley, Gambit and Evelyn Bush.

Ground preparation
My plot is usually dug in November incorporating farmyard manure. I have grown on the plot for over 20 years and get the odd stool attacked by crown gall so I now sterilise the soil with Basamid in early October before the really cold weather arrives.

I usually get a soil test carried out professionally, it has been difficult to get a reliable firm to do this work but for the last two years I have used Soiltech and found the service to be very good.

I do not put the roof panels over the plot before planting becau se physically I am not able to do it. It would have been advantageous this year (1996) as my plants were subjected to a 5 minute hailstorm which shredded the foliage and could retard growth quite significantly. However, time will tell.

Planting out
I l ike to plant out from the 10th May onwards, weather permitting, this is about a fortnight after the application of the base dressing as per soil analysis recommendations. I plant out at 18" between plants and 16" between rows and reduce the laterals to 2 immediately after planting. I find this is the best treatment for this variety. I have grown some one-up but found no advantage in size or form of the flower. The breaks are treated with Alar when they are 9" long at 5mls Alar to 2.5 pints of water, sprayi ng the growing tip only. Alar is used again before the bud is taken at the rate of one quarter teaspoon Alar to 1 pint of water. When Alar treatment is carried out the plant should be kept dry for the next 24 hours.

Feeding
I try to read the plants needs and work accordingly, but a high nitrogen boost is given in mid June to increase the petal count in the bud at initiation. Bloom feeding is a dicey business and best left alone in my view.

Spraying
Proprietary insecticides are used, at double the rec ommended strength, every 7 days initially and when plants are reaching maturity every 5 days. There doesn't appear to be a problem with cocked buds and side shoots are removed when long enough to handle, i.e. about 0.5" long.

Roof covers
These are fitted when buds are ready for large bags, and all are double bagged. I have used mortice frames but find them too time consuming to fit and remove. They are unnecessary with double bags.

Cutting flowers
Blooms are cut at least 48 hours before staging and are fairly easy to match and little dressing is required. The percentage of blooms shown is about 80%.

Lifting and boxing stools
Stools are lifted in mid October, washed in clean water and then in Jeyes Fluid at 1 fl oz to 3 gallons. Stools are trimmed before boxing in JI no 1 compost. All green growth is removed before washing. The variety is susceptible to crown gall and for many growers who don't wash stools won't know whether crown gall is present.

I take the stools into the greenhouse and on to the propagator one month before the cuttings are required, but if the weather is mild and cutting growth has started in the cold frame the process is held back. The greenhouse is emptied, treated with a sulphur candle after washing with a power hose. A partition is erected to reduce the area required to be kept frost free.

I have found Primrose Chessington a real banker, possibly because it responds to my type of culture, as do the Apricot and Salmon sports.

EMILY PEACE

I chose the variety Emily Peace because of it's colour, hardness and potential size. I don't think the variety is entirely virus free and would suggest that growers watch the plants very closely. It has a tendency to lose its foliage in the middle of the stem, although there is plenty o f good foliage left for showing the flower. I feel we should select and propagate from plants which haven't lost foliage and grow two up to keep the bloom shape, otherwise it comes too square. This is really a promising variety, and when last did we have a good, hard, bronze, very large intermediate, which we will have to learn how to grow? At present I shall treat it like Primrose Chessington, with a stop one week earlier to see if that's what it requires. The cuttings are slow to grow and get away and on no account should growth retardant be used.

If you would like further information or wish to comment on this publication please send your e-mail to: paul.barlow@chrysanthemums.info

Last updated on 20 December, 2001