Propagation
I take my cuttings of both these cultivars in early January, rooting them in PlantPac 40's in multi purpose compost with perlite added. Cuttings are dipped in hormone rooting powder although I have rooted successfully without it.

Potting on
As soon as cuttings have rooted they are put into 3" square pots in the same multi purpose compost, again with perlite added for drainage. No fertiliser is added at this stage and plants are watered when I think they need it. I'm against the opinion that you wait until the plants flag before watering.

When pot s have filled with roots they are moved on into 6" polythene pots using a compost consisting of multi purpose compost plus perlite plus one 5" pot of Fish Blood and Bone to each 70 litres of compost. I find they are easily handled in these pots as my allotment is 2 miles from my home. Plants at this stage are sprayed with various insecticides.

Stopping
Plants are stopped in batches of eight over a 4 week period starting on the 15th of March, only a small tip is removed from each plant.

Ground preparation
The ground is dug over at the beginning of the year and mushroom compost is used instead of cow manure, this means I have less weeding to do later on. A sample of soil is sent away in March and any requirements are given as soon as the findings are known.

Planting out
Cultivars are planted out, using the domino five system, during the first week of May, although in 1995 I did plant out in the last week of April. Spacing is 15" apart in rows of three with 18" between rows. In the past I've grown 350 plants but this year (1996) I'm cutting down to 180. I don't put up my covers before planting. All cultivars are reduced to two laterals at planting time. Spraying takes place on a weekly basis using Tumblebug, Murphy's Systemic and Rapid using them alt ernately.

Securing buds and bagging
Buds are secured as soon as it's possible to do so, I think that if you wait too long you are taking a lot of energy away from the bud. I spray the stem below the bud with Gro Slo as these cultivars tend to have a lon g weak stem below the bud. I take care not to allow any of the Gro Slo to get on the bud itself. I expect the plants to grow to about 4ft to 4ft 6" in height.

Small, 6"x6", bud bags are put on as soon as possible and these are kept on until colour show then 15"x13" single bags are put on. After about three weeks I will cut one corner of the bag to allow me to keep an eye on the developing bloom.

Exhibition
I like to cut the blooms about two days before a show and put them in my garage. There is not much dressing required for either of these two cultivars, just the odd petal here and there to be pulled out. With these cultivars approximately 85-90% of the blooms are up to show standard

Stools management
Stools are sprayed with insecticide 2 to 3 days before lifting in mid to end October. They are cut from the ground in 4" squares, boxed up at six to 14"x8"x3" trays. One of the best things about these cultivars is that they throw plenty of cuttings. The compost used is Gem multi purpose which I find is first class. The stools are put in a cool greenhouse until the end of November when they are watered and put on the hot bench. Cuttings should then be ready for rooting in about four weeks.

And finally ..
I have grown these two cultivars for many years now and find them to be first class for show work, that was until 1995 when out of 350 plants I showed only 3 vases of 3. The hot weather took it's toll and the blooms were boiling inside the bags. I will gr ow 20 of each of these cultivars during 1996 and hope that the weather is a little cooler.

If you would like further information or wish to comment on this publication please send your e-mail to: paul.barlow@chrysanthemums.info

Last updated on 20 December, 2001