Introduction A small band of enthusiasts continue to fly the flag for Late Chrysanthemums in Scotland. This brief summary is an attempt to encourage more growers to give Lates a try. By taking a look at the varieties which have been consistently shown at Scotland's La te shows, and the growing methods used it is hoped that some of the uncertainty about choice of variety and cultural technique can be removed. The contributors to this publication are able to provide plants and advice throughout the growing season to all interested growers.

DECORATIVES

The decorative sections are probably the most widely grown of all sections of Late Chrysanths. Covering both Reflexes and Intermediates these sections provide the late grower with almost unlimited choice. The varieties shown above have consistently provid ed quality blooms at S cotlands Lates shows. For the most part the varieties used are classified as 'October flowering' which means their natural flowering time is mid October (varieties such as West Broms and Dynasty fall into this category). In almost all cases three blooms c an be cropped on each plant. If you only have room for a few pots then West Brom, Dynasty and William Florentine will ensure a most pleasureable return for your efforts.

LARGE EXHIBITION

Large exhibition types are fondly referred to as 'japs' because of their far eastern association. Growing them is considered to take an unusual amount of dedication. But like all things it gets easier once you've had some practice and understand the basics. The following table contains details of the varieties used by growers in Scotland.

Many Jap growers use clay pots and feed their plants at every watering. This will typically be at quarter, third or half strength rates depending on the variety. Japs can be grown successfully in soil-based and soilless composts. Rooting and progression potting is similar to other sections, although 3.5" and 6" pots are usually used for the intermediate stages. Plants are reduced to two breaks when they have reached six inches long. Buds should appear at the tip of each flowering stem towards the end of July, when the buds have been secured it is time to reduce the plant to only one flo wering stem thus directing all the plant's energies into the remaining stem and bud. Feeding continues throughout bud development.

SINGLES

In terms of blooms per plant Singles give an extremely high return. They are easy to grow and don't require any particular treatment. Of the Masons Family the Bronze is the most reliable. It produces more side shoots after the stop and consequently more b looms. Stems are stronger than both Orange and Golden and it also flowers a bit earlier. All are a delight to grow and develop with very few problems. With such a heavy crop all sing les require a fairly large pot, 9" is the recommended size. Heavy feeding is not necessary as this may cause petals to develop in the central disk. A weekly balanced feed up to securing the buds is quite adequate. Top dressing pots in August and mid September will help generate added vigour throughout the flowering period.

INCURVED

Incurves are the classic Late flowering Chrysanthemum. Available in a range of colours, the medium incurve is most popular, particularly the John Hughes family. This variety is susceptible to spotting under humid conditions but when it's good it's unbeatable! Regular weekly feeding will keep the plants in balance and a top dressing in August and again mid September will ensure active growth during bloom development.

Geographical differences

The contributing growers are all from the East cost of Scotland from Anstruther up to Aberdeen. As a general rule the further north you go the earlier you will have to do things. So rooting and stopping dates should be adjusted accordingly as growth tends to be a little slower. The tables of varieties show dates for various activities, where a range is specified then the more norther ly growers should consider the earliest date in the range.

Composts

Chrysanths grow equally well in soil based and soilless composts. Whether you mix your own or buy ready made from the garden centre - the Chrysanths won't mind.

20 Hints for successful Lates:

1. Be selective of stools, keep only those which produced good blooms.

2. Start stools into growth to suit rooting times.

3. A good cutting is short, well grown and in growth.

4. Mix soils well in advance of need, raise soil temperature

5. Don't overpot, use a pot size to suit the vigour of the variety. Move plants through several potting stages, 3" to 5" to final pots when ready. Each new potting should have a progressively richer compost. If possible don 't allow plants to become pot bound.

6. Don't coddle plants, protect from frost, but keep cool. Stop varieties in April which will be grown on second crown. Move into final pots mid to end May. Apply second stop in early June for 2nd crown plants.

7. Watering - master the art, with soil mixes let the pot dry out and the plant \par wilt slightly then water well. With soilless mixes water just before this happens.

8. Use canes to suit the eventual plant height, one cane to each flowering stem.

9. Feed plants four to six weeks after final potting, keep the plant in balance.

10. Spray plants with insecticide/fungicide mix every two/three weeks. Ring the changes to get a good kill.

11. Reduce to flowering stems by mid July for Incurves and Decoratives. Japs should be at one by early August. Singles should be reduced by early September

12. When buds appear don't disbud at one go, remove side growth over several days and never allow them to grow above the bud.

13. Continue feeding as buds begin to swell, stop feeding when the top of the bud splits

14. Top dress pots with about half an inch of compost during August and again mid September. Jap growers may also apply an additional dressing in July.

15. Take plants into greenhouse by mid September after spraying thoroughly with insecticide and fungicide.

16. House plants at colour show, leave vents, doors open for some time.

17. Never completely close down the greenhouse, always let the air move around the developing blooms, if possible use a fan to keep the air moving, ventilate well on warmer days.

18. When the flowers are forming don't allow pots to dry out - apply water regularly, the usual sign is the top of the compost beginning to dry out. Little and often should be the rule

19. Water well before cutting blooms, boil all stems for 30 seconds.

20. Mark all stools which produced good blooms, propagate from these next year.

If you would like further information or wish to comment on this publication please send your e-mail to: paul.barlow@chrysanthemums.info

Last updated on 22 December, 2001