Growing Large Exhibition Blooms for Show
an article by the Late Leo Clark (1921-1999), first published in 1977.

Introduction I have attempted to grow the Japs for about thirty-five years and as I think back to my beginning, methods, techniques, materials, cultivars, knowledge and results have changed vastly.  I grew up and went to school in Timaru a small city about 100 miles south of Christchurch. It was while I was at school in Timaru about 1936 that a school friend's father, a keen chrysanthemum grower, gave me my first cuttings and told me how to go about growing some really big flowers. The large exhibition were referred to as Japanese, and the exhibition incurved as Chinese in those days. Mr. Hardigan gave me about 15 offshoots and if I can remember correctly some of the names were 'Edith Cavell', 'Pink Pockett', 'Hugh Mitchell', 'Lady Talbot', 'Louise Pockett', 'Gary White', 'William Turner' and 'Lancashire'.

Pests in those days were caterpillars, black aphids, earwigs, control was by chemical spraying with the products available at that time, and a method of trapping for earwigs. Fungus diseases such as powdery mildew and rust were typically controlled with wettable sulphur or lime sulphur. 

Pots and composts
In those days clay pots were used if one could afford them, and I could not, so I used reject biscuit tins at a cost of two for a penny. Soil was equal parts of turf which had been stacked for 9-12 months, good clean sand and decomposed animal manure and leaf mould. To this was added a quantity of lime, superphosphate and blood and bone.

Liquid feeds were made with soot water, cow manure or some other rotten stinking mess, all put into a bag and hung by a stick across a barrel of water. This was watered on to the plants about twice a week throughout the growing season. 

In those bygone days some good flowers were produced occasionally and if a plant did not perform well in a particular season it was put down to it not being a good season for that particular cultivar.  Little was generally known of virus, botrytis, verticillium wilt, etc. Some growers used a method of rested stock after a bad season as it was thought that, after hard forcing and growing such large flowers all of 6-7in., the stock should be given a rest for a whole season. We now know better, and if a cultivar does not do well it is often because it is diseased and needs destroying or selecting for a stronger or more true to type clone.

Rigid selection for healthy stock
The following is the method I use for the production of large exhibition. My season really commences with the growing plants a year before, as I am extremely aware of the need for healthy selected stock. This can only be obtained by  rigid selection being carried out at all stages of the growing programme:

• One must select a stool which produces an abundance of healthy cuttings which root easily and have good root development. 

• Plants which are as near as possible as being identical to that concept which is considered as being representative of the ideal of that particular cultivar. 

• Plants which show a distinct resistance to insect attack and plants which show no obvious infection of virus or fungus diseases. 

• Also plants which have produced top-quality show flowers and particularly if any of these plants produce champion blooms. 

Throughout the whole growing season I will note and mark plants which have the above desired characteristic features, and will not hesitate to discard and destroy any showing undesirable traits. 

New Zealand climate and conditions
If Northern Hemisphere growers advance any dates I mention by six months you will be able to relate the time to your own growing season. 

We in New Zealand are probably more fortunate than many in the U.K., Europe and parts of America as our winters are in comparison relatively mild and a 6-8 degree frost (Fahrenheit)) is considered severe, though we do experience one or two throughout the winter in the region of 12-14 degrees. The average frost would, I think, be 3-4 degrees and we can expect frosts from May to mid-August. Snow is usually of only a few hours' duration and soon melts.  Sunlight in winter is, by European standards, high in Christchurch. The average rainfall is 26in. per annum. The summers in Christchurch can be long, hot and dry with temperatures from 70-95 degrees day after day with clear cloudless skies.

High temperatures and bright sunshine can continue right through to the shows, which usually commence about 25th April in the North Island and 1st May in Christchurch, and 6th-7th May in the south of the South Island (Dunedin and Invercargill).

Usually, from early November to mid-April, we can expect good growing conditions and in an environment such as this plants have a good chance of producing good flowers. 

Treatment after flowering
I grow my exhibition plants in 9 and 10 inch clay pots though I do use, when necessary, concrete and plastic pots on occasion. All my exhibition incurved and exhibition decorative are grown in plastic pots. Immediately after flowering all plants are sprayed with insecticide and fungicide to clean up any pests or diseases which may have attacked the plants while they were in the flowering house. At this stage water is withheld from the plants so as to encourage dormancy, plants are broken back to a stump which is about 8 or 10 inches high, any suckers coming from the base of the plant are also broken off at ground level. I like to leave an 8-9in. stump, as often plants are still active, and a stool will bleed with the risk of loss if cut back too short. 

Note, I use the word broken, as I do not at any stage use a knife or clippers unless absolutely necessary: no use risking virus infection. Whenever a knife or cutters are used the instrument is regularly dipped in a solution of suitable disinfectant. After the plants have been cleaned up they are transferred from the glasshouse to the colder conditions out-side for a period of 3-4 weeks, depending on how kind the weather is.

During this time plants are watered only when necessary. After three weeks plants are brought back into a cold greenhouse and encouraged into gentle growth. Most of my large exhibition cuttings are taken from the pots as I do not usually transfer the stools from pots to boxes or beds. I find the pots help me house more stools, as pots can be stood in the paths between the beds of other stock stools and can be easily shifted and moved from one place to another as required. When the stools have commenced into new growth and the cuttings have one or two pairs of leaves I give all the plants a drench with a suitable insecticide to make sure they commence the new season free from most insect pests.

Cutting material
If growth remains steady during the end of June I shall still keep the house cold. Heat will only be applied if growth is backward. By the middle to the end of July most cultivars will be ready to take a batch of cuttings. I like a short tip cutting not too stout, about 2-3in. long with medium-sized leaves. These are snapped from the stock plants, labelled, a leaf or two removed if necessary, all cuttings are dipped in a rooting hormone and inserted on the propagating bench for rooting. 

Cool store for early cuttings
If cuttings are too early for some reason then they are still taken when they are in their prime and are stored, for future use, in a cool store at 38 degrees. Cuttings will keep in good condition in cool storage for several weeks. In fact, if kept at these temperatures 38-40 degrees for 1- 14 days I have noted cuttings will root in 6-7 days. It appears the process of rooting commences under storage. 

Propagation system
The propagating benches are 5ft. 6in. wide and 50ft. long. Each bench is heated with six 1000 watt plastic-coated electric cables, thermostatically controlled at 70 degrees. Water is supplied by an automatic misting device controlled by an electronic leaf. The rooting medium on the bench is 4in. of medium to fine sharp river sand topped with un. of Perlite. Cuttings are spaced about 1+in. apart and 2-3in. between rows, depending on the size of cuttings. Rooting generally takes between 8-12 days, depending on the cultivar. When rooted, plants are transplanted individually into 2in. diameter by 4in. deep plastic tubes. 

First potting The potting mixture used is made up of 1 part sterilised sieved loam, 1 part of pine bark, + part sharp river sand and + part Perlite. To each bushel is added 2 ounces lime, 1 ounce dried blood, 1 ounce superphosphate, 1 ounce sulphate of potash and 3 ounces of Osmocote 14:14:14.  Plants are stood pot thick in trays in a heated glasshouse for 6-10 days until they reestablish themselves, at which time they are transferred to a cold house for another 8-10 days, before being put outside in a sunny sheltered area. They would be protected at night from frost, if necessary.

Second potting
After growing outside for 3-4 weeks plants would be ready for potting-on into a 5 inch pot. This would be late September or early October. A few days prior to potting-on into 5 inch pots, plants are given a growth-retarding treatment. I shall again spray the plants after they are in the final pots, when the new breaks are about 3-4in. long. Finally, plants are sprayed with growth retardant about five days after disbudding to keep the neck short and strong. 

At the time of potting-on into 5 inch a stronger potting mix can be used, by increasing the quantity of fertiliser by about one-third. At this stage most plants are staked and supported with a light cane about 1 5in. long. It may be necessary to stop some cultivars, such as 'Hugh Mitchell' and 'Keith Luxford'. Plants are stood 12 to a tray in a sheltered area in full sun. 

Final Potting
Usually, some plants are ready for final potting by mid-November. If possible I like to use 9- and 10-inch clay pots for the final stage of growth. My final potting mixture is made up as follows: 

• 1 part good sterilised loam not sifted and, preferably, with a good quantity of fibre and humus; 

• 1 part moist peat or pine bark as a peat substitute; 

• 1 part coarse clean sharp river sand. 

For each bushel of the mixture I add: 

• 2 ounces of ground lime-stone; 

• 2 ounces superphosphate; 

• 2 ounces dried blood, or 3 ounces blood and bone; 

• 1 ounce sulphate of potash 

• and 4 ounces Osmocote-a slow-release fertiliser over about four months. 

Mix thoroughly together loam, sand, peat or bark and fertilisers. 

Peat Substitute During the past two seasons I have only used fresh pine bark as a peat substitute. It has not been composted or in any way decomposed and I get satisfactory results. I do, however, compensate for a nitrogen deficiency which occurs after about 4-5 weeks and appears to last for about another 6 weeks, by giving three high nitrogen feeds by using 1 ounce of urea in 3 gallons of water. One feed two weeks after potting, again after 14 days and again in 14 days.  Plant inspection prior to potting It is not advisable to move plants into finals unless the ball of soil in the smaller pot is full of roots or it is found to be too difficult to keep plants moist during a hot

sunny day. Before commencing final potting thoroughly inspect your plants for insect or fungus diseases, also discard any backward or unhealthy plant. At this stage plants are easily handled and most trouble can readily be seen at a glance.

Potting mix in the right condition
Make sure your potting mixture is not too dry or too wet. It should crumble at a touch if compressed in the hand. Place sufficient broken crocks or roughage at the bottom of the pot to provide good drainage, this is very necessary. Now fill the bottom of the pot with about 3-4in. of potting mix and lightly firm with a rammer. Knock out plant to be potted and place in middle of soil in bottom of pot, then add more compost and work it around the old ball of soil of the plant, again using a light ramming to get all the fresh compost firmly around the plant. 

Fill the pot to within 3/4in. of the rim so as to allow plenty of room for light top dressings from time to time. The compost should be as firm as the compost was in the old ball of soil. A good test is made when the name label is inserted into the new medium after the plant has been potted, the label would need fair pressure to push in. 

At final potting stage I feel the grower and plants should have reached a point of finality. From now on a plant can only perform as well as the grower will allow and he will have to be able to interpret every need as it arises. Skill and experience will assist in the final results, a possible champion bloom. 

I prefer to water them in
Unlike most, I prefer to give my plants a good watering the same day I pot. This is to ensure all plants have an even amount of moisture and I do feel it gives them a good start. 

Selecting laterals
Some of the early stopped plants will need staking. I use two stakes for my Japs, one a little shorter than the other. In most cases I finish with one bloom per plant, though for the greater part of the season I take two stems up though one is removed at a later stage. 

The explanation for this is as follows: after stopping I take up three stems to the stage of six or eight leaves and then I reduce to two stems by selecting the two strongest or most desirable. With a two-stem system I can afford the odd accident and lose a stem or two by wind, insect or other damage, still leaving me the chance to get a flower from my plant. If all goes well the two stems will be almost identical at bud initiation stage which is about the second week in January, but always one will be a little stronger or a little earlier or later. This can be of assistance if our timing is out a little, which does happen. 

Here, with the two stems we can, with skilled judgement, select the stem which will produce the flower which should be near to full development at show time. Four or five days' difference can be expected between any two stems on a large exhibition at show day.  The third, and perhaps the most important, reason for my two-stem system is I maintain I get a larger flower because of the extra leaves and plant bulk produced at early bud expansion time. If we can produce a large strong and vigorous root system capable of supporting a large top, leaves and stem (two big stems in this case) then it is logical we get a bigger bloom.

Leaf and root form the basis of the plant
Leaves and roots are the top and bottom of a plant and, in a nutshell, they are the plant. Vegetative growth continues until a certain amount of growth has been produced, or until the day-length and/or temperature are right for bud initiation. If a plant can be produced with a surplus of leaves then it is logical we will have a plant with sufficient growth at the correct time for bud initiation to take place. 

Early buds for bigger flowers
It is now generally appreciated that, to get a big flower, we need an early bud so the longest yet minimum growing period can be provided to produce a bloom with the greatest number of petals and that these petals are expanded to their full potential. To do this we need a big plant and a plant with ample leaves and a big root system in a growing medium sufficiently supplied with minerals in the form of plant foods. 

These plant foods are taken up by the roots and transferred to the leaves which, in turn, take energy from the sun and are able to transfer this food into plant sugars which, in turn, are transferred into plant tissue. This is why we need as many leaves as possible on our plant, so it can function properly. An extra-strong stem on the plant can help the process considerably. 

At bud initiation stage, or about 10th January, I lightly remove the growing tip from the unwanted stem. By this stage my cultivars will have produced 20-30 extra leaves on the stump of the spare stem and, with no further vegetative growth possible as all laterals were removed, the extra leaves can only lighten the burden for the flower's flowering stem. 

Back to plant management 
About 10-12 days after final potting, plants will be growing away strongly and most will need watering every second day now. At this time I give the first top-dressing and this is usually surplus soil left over from final potting. I top-dress each pot with about ½ inch of the new soil. This is also the time I give the plants their first liquid feed, which is applied through a diluter; 1 part of stock in 400 gallons of water. 

Liquid Feed My stock liquid feed is made up by dissolving 2+ lb. urea, 2 lb. nitrate of potash, 1 lb. mono-ammonium phosphate,8 ounces magnesium sulphate and 3 heaped tablespoonfuls of "Fetrilon Combi", a trace element, in 6 gallons of water. This stock feed is then diluted and applied at the rate of 1 part in 200 or 400, depending on the growth and condition of plants and can be used every three or four days.  During this time of maximum growth in mid-December and early January, feeding is reduced to once a week from the time buds appear and finished when a bud shows strong colour, that is about four or five days before petal fall.

Experiments with sugar supplements
Here I shall make mention of some thoughts I have had for a number of years but have not made use of the idea until this season; it can be called the sugar treatment. We all know plants produce sugar, which is required in large quantities if the plant is to grow into a healthy specimen. It is also know that sugars are produced during the hours of strong sunlight and are used up during the hours of darkness. 

Some years we get unusually long spells of dull or sunless days, therefore the manufacture of sugars is limited. The present season is excessively dull and, at the early stages of growth-October and November-plants were slow growing and soft. To try and overcome this I commenced the sugar treatment early in January. 

I dissolve 500 grammes of raw sugar in 2 litres of water and feed it to the plants at the rate of 1 part per 200. On the first treatment I specially supplied one plant of 'George Edwards', which is noted for its pale light foliage, to a cup of the raw stock solution, just to see how strong a solution a plant might tolerate. Within three days 'George Edwards' was a healthy dark green specimen. No flagging or ill-effects were noted.

The conclusion reached from this experiment of the stronger stock solution is that chrysanthemum plants can tolerate very high doses of liquid sugar without any immediate damage. 

All the balance of some 500 large exhibition which were treated with the weaker dosage, 1 in 200 look good and leaves are a nice healthy green, which are firm to the touch, stems also have darkened and become more firm. 

At this time, 1st February, I have treated all plants four times over a period of four weeks and now incorporate the sugar treatment with the liquid feed. I intend to continue the use of sugar until buds show colour. 

In the past ten days the weather has improved and we are getting longer periods of sunshine and temperatures are more in line with our usual summer. At the beginning of the treatment all plants were inclined to being late, now they have made up the leeway and are developing on time, almost to a plant. Whether this is because of making more sugar available I have no way of telling. Perhaps this is an area where some research could be carried out on the possible assimilation of sugars and their effect on chrysanthemums. Maybe this is a line that could benefit the year-round grower during a winter crop? 

Cultivar specific treatments
There are several cultivars which, for several reasons, I do not feed as often as others. 'Shirley Champion', 'Patricia Barnett', 'William Turner', 'Stately', 'Elizabeth Shoesmith', these are only given feed at half-strength, owing to the risk of stem-cracking which can occur. 

Some cultivars will produce gross coarse flowers if too well fed, while others, such as 'Harold Habgood', will produce a distorted flower and often the bud will not fully develop. 'Shirley Champion' I always grow two flowers per plant to get a refined flower. 

Fungicide and other treatments
During early January I spray suitable chemicals to control powdery mildew and, about a week later, plants are sprayed with a chemical solution to ward off rust. In early February I apply the first of two treatments of spraying for protection against white rust (puccinia horiana). Ideally this should be a systemic fungicide which is also effective against other rusts. 

White rust is present in New Zealand and I did get an infection a year or so ago and now I take the precaution as a matter of course. As soon as I am finished with the application of systemic insectides;and fungicides and growth retardants I will spray the plants with Wilt Proof to help moisture evaporation through the leaves during flower opening. 

Monthly activities continue
By early January I will give my plants the second top-dressing and all plants at this stage are regularly tied with twistums, a length of thin wire coated with paper or plastic,about 1/8in. wide; these are good and fast for tying stems to the canes. 

Early February is a very important time for the large exhibition chrysanthemums in New Zealand, as this is the time when the buds must be secured. I commence disbudding usually a few early buds by the 1st or 2nd of the month. The majority of cultivars need their buds secured from the 5th February to the 10th of the month and a few fast developers like 'Connie Mayhew', 'Woking Rose', etc., as late as the 15th of the month. 'Keith Luxford', 'James Bryant', 'Hugh Mitchell', 'Lady Docker', all need to be secured by the 5th of February for a North Island show the last week in April, while 'Duke of Kent', 'Fred Taylor', 'Mark Woolman' and 'Barcelona' by the 10th February. 

If flowers are needed for the later shows during the early part of May in the South Island then buds secured from the 10th to the 15th February will be ready on time. Usually late buds secured after the 18th February will not be ready on time or else it will be a thin flower after showing an eye. 

Interesting observations
It might be of interest to note some observations I have made with my plants: it has been found that the following cultivars will produce a bud on time and will have a good quality flower only if the minimum number of leaves per stem are present at the time of bud initiation 

• 'Harry Gee', 34;

• 'Barcelona', 42; 

• 'Gigantic', 38; 

• 'Charles Shoesmith', 30; 

• 'City of Christchurch', 40; 

• 'Peter James', 46; 

• 'Jessie Hapgood', 44; 

• 'Duke of Kent', 44; 

• 'Amethyst', 36; 

• 'Mark Wolman', 44; 

• 'James Bryant', 40; 

• 'Leviathen' 38; 

• 'Elizabeth Shoesmith', 42; 

• 'Lilac Prince', 40. 

It appears on average that we need about 40 leaves per plant to get a full large flower of good form and colour. 

Half turn is important
About ten days prior to disbudding I commence to give my plants a half turn every four or five days, to assist the stems and later the bud to sit upright on top of a straight stem. This turning also helps all the leaves assimilate the maximum energy from the sun and thereby bring the plant to the required state of maturity or ripeness when the stem becomes firm and woodlike. 

Turning also affords the means of an efficient inspection of each and every plant to be carried out at regular intervals. Turning is carried on until plants are housed. 

Final Top-dressing
By the 5th February all the plants have been given the third and final top-dressing. All vegetative growth has nearly been completed and all we need now is for sufficient root activity to continue for long enough to fill the buds. 

Basal growths are active at this time and are removed when long enough to handle. This is discontinued after plants are housed. 

Housing starts about mid March
The 17th March is when I try to house all the advanced plants. Although therapeutic protection from pests and diseases is carried out regularly throughout the whole year (growing season) I give all the plants a good spray a day or so before being housed.

Shading and careful watering
Some shading is necessary in New Zealand as the amount of sunshine is still very high in March and many a good flower can be ruined by scalding, particularly the darker shades such as red, bronze and purples. 

Great care and attention must be given to watering in the early stages of flower development. Sufficient must be given to maintain the plant in a turgid condition, also enough must be present in the soil to keep the soluble fertiliser still available in reasonable balance. If soil is allowed to get too dry then the fertiliser concentration can become too strong for the plant to handle. 

Manage temperature if possible
If day temperatures get above 70 degrees then the transpiration rate or water loss of the plant is greatly increased. If the soil is dry and the extra water uptake containing a high concentration of soluble foods, trouble can be expected. How disappointing it is to find blackened petals after a spell of hot weather. These petals are usually immature and not yet fully unfolded or those just freshly fallen. Usually this trouble is expected on the very young flowers and the occurrence tapers off after six or eight rows of petals have fallen. 

End of vegetative growth
It must also be realised that our plants, at this stage of development, are not making any extra vegetative growth. All side laterals have been removed and most suckers from the base of the pot have also been removed. I myself tend to let basal growth develop unchecked once the buds show colour. 

Take care when removing damaged petals
If only one or two petals are damaged then I leave them on the flower to be removed at a much later date. Removal at an early stage can be disastrous as, when the petal is removed from the capitulum, it can weep and the resulting moisture attract grey mould (botrytis) which is difficult to detect. 

Petal Slide
The bloom will often continue to develop and the flower, to all appearances, look good. However, after several weeks the botrytis causes the whole capitulum to collapse. I refer to this collapse as petal slide, as some of the petals at first do slide down the stem. This petal slide can be delayed in a flower if only the odd isolated petal is damaged by leaving it in the bloom until about a week before show day, and then removing it or removing it even later when the flower is picked. 

Petal tip damage
Often we can get the tips only of some petals damaged and if the atmosphere of the house is reasonably dry this damage does not spread. If a good flower has been so damaged and this has been caused by hot conditions, as described earlier, or sun scald, usually it is noticed a little later in the season when the flower is a quarter to more than half developed. This scalding damage can be removed and in a very big well-developed flower, if not more than 12-20 petals are involved, it could be difficult to notice it was damaged at all. 

My method of improving the appearance of the flower is as follows: the plant is placed in a position where plenty of air can circulate. I wait about one week or more after the damage as occurred and then perform this simple operation. I gently fold back the surrounding petals from those that are damaged, and these are then held in place by inserting cotton wool buds. These do not bruise the good petals if carefully used. 

Then I use a pair of sharp surgical scissors to carefully cut the section just below the damaged petal away, leaving a stump still attached to the capitulum. If well-performed the flower can be used as a spare at the show if needed. 

Use a little heat when necessary
After plants have been housed and as the night temperatures become lower, down to 45 degrees or less, I apply a little heat to stop the risk of condensation drips from falling on the flowers. 

The main objective of house management is to keep the atmosphere as dry as possible during flowering. This is attained by keeping the high day temperature down to 60 degrees if possible by ventilation and watering the plants only as they need it. 

After a flower has reached the half-way stage of development or more it does not do any harm by allowing it to flag gently on occasion. You can see if flower size has shrunk slightly and if in doubt gently cup the flower in both hands and the petals will feel soft and yielding to the touch. I often water by leaf or flower touch to determine which, if any, plants need more or less water during later flower development if the weather outside is cold or wet. 

Further pest control measures
A watchful eye must be kept for the appearance of aphids or caterpillars in the flowers. If this does occur fumigation has proved effective if the house is in good condition and the job is carried out in calm conditions. 

After plants have been housed for about five or six weeks most flowers will be ready for show. I do not intend to deal with preparing flowers for shows as I expect we do much the same as you folk in Britain.

Dressing blooms for exhibition - or not? However, one point I must mention that may be of interest. This deals with my opinion on whether a flower should be dressed for exhibition at the show. I do not dress my flowers; by this I mean I would not spend more than a couple of minutes on a flower after it has been picked in preparation for show. This time would be spent in examining the bloom for any damp or damaged petals, and if necessary the tidying up of any unruly petals.

I consider it is possible to grow a flower to near perfection for the show bench; a grower should be a grower, and a floral arranger a floral arranger. A champion bloom should be a champion bloom because it was grown that way and not made that way because of the expertise of a floral artist or the addition of supports to lift up the shoulders to give the impression of greater size, or having to support a weak or broken stem. 

Our New Zealand National Society does not allow supports of any kind to be used at the show and I am in full agreement with this rule. I know a lot of folk will not agree with my views on this subject of dressing or not to dress. After all, I like to show them as I grow them and for me anyway it is satisfaction. 

Twelve Large Exhibition at the 2006 South Island Show NZNCS CERTIFICATE Most Meritorious Entry in Show  LARGE EXHIBITION 12 vases (not less than 8 cultivars)  Grower: Stan Baldwin of Invercargill  Cultivars: White Lancashire Fold x 2, Kota Kinabalu , Primrose Jessie Habgood Gigantic x 2, Amber Gigantic, Yellow Duke of Kent x 2, Ralph Lambert,  Elizabeth Shoesmith, Patricia Barnett.

Note: This text was provided by, and permission for publication given by the New Zealand National Chrysanthemum Society.

Large Exhibition blooms are often referred to as 'japs' after their Japanese origins.

Popular cultivars include:

'Elizabeth Shoesmith'

'Red Amethyst'

'Shirley Champion'

'Pink Duke of Kent'

'Primrose Supreme'

'Primrose Jessie Habgood'

'Silver Gigantic'

Other Popular cultivars:

Primrose Jessie Habgood 

Jessie Habgood

Bill Bye

Elizabeth Shoesmith 

Ralph Lambert 

Phil Houghton

Yellow Phil Houghton 

Pink Duke of Kent

Pat Brophy 

Ivor Mace

Patricia Barnett 

Shirley Champion

Note: 
Many of these cultivars can be found in the 
U.K. Directory 
of Popular Cultivars

Click the link in the header area on this page

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© Copyright 2006 NZ-NCS/ Paul Barlow.